Anne Krebiehl MW
is a widely published wine writer, judge and lecturer with a particular focus, among others, on traditional-method sparkling wines
.. But not all newcomers are youngsters. Hervé Brisson in Vert-Toulon is 52 years old. He joined his family domaine in 1997, working with his father until he retired in 2001. He tried to ‘understand his land’, converting to organic farming. He started experimenting with vinification in 2016, making his first Champagne in 2019, released in 2021. His wife and business partner Odile reveals that this is Hervé’s ‘dream’. By now they have stoneware spheres in addition to the oak pièces and demi-muids in which the wines ferment. His watchword is ‘equilibrium’ ...
Hervé Brisson, Les Aulnes
Extra Brut NV 91/ 100
POA Raw Wine
Val du Petit Morin. This estate’s inaugural wine was fermented completely in oak pièce and demi-muid, 100 % Chardonnay base wines all from the 2019 harvest, but it is not vintage dated as the producer had no reserve wines as yet. The nose shows hints of melted butter, gentle reductive smokiness and savoury spice, and the body is well proportioned, with an unusual creaminess for a wine disgorged after a little less than two years on lees. However, the 10-month ageing on gross lees of the base wines accounts for a lovely, savoury and long umami finish. Drink 2023-2030 Alc 13%.
